Chef Sarah Grueneberg somehow makes Italian food new again, striking out on her own for the first time after appearing on “Top Chef’ and leading the kitchen at Spiaggia.  Monteverde’s wooden, dimly-lit interior is made more homey by its location on Madison, a couple blocks south of the West Loop’s busier “restaurant row.” She injects her German heritage into the menu with dishes like Oma’s green mountain salad and stuffed cabbage with porcini bolognese and crispy polenta, a robust vegetarian option. Her dedication to pasta both traditional (tipica) and new (atipica) is apparent. This is the freshest pasta in the city and most dishes are made to order. Sit at the butcher-block bar for the best view of the action while snacking on prosciutto butter toast. Watch as staff on the pastificio line meticulously fill and fold tortelloni, soon to be sauteed in brown butter and drenched in Parmesan fonduta. The arrabbiata is another must, listed under the pasta atipica section. Wok- fried noodles balance heat, char and blistered cherry tomatoes in an umami explosion topped with juicy head-on prawns. The wine list includes fairly priced gems from Alto Adige and Piedmont,with a nice by-the-glass selection. Save room for Black Forest ice cream cake or chocolate chip meringue “forgotten” cookies, a sweet end to a meal you certainly won’t forget any time soon.

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Cuisine: Italian, Pasta

Dress code: Casual

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